Useful Painting Recipes


Hi all, 

Here's a list of some of the most effective painting recipes I've come across in my travels. Please note that I'm not the original author in most cases - where I know the creator their name is listed. I've kept to the original paint names as the new range isn't an exact match.

Nurgle Daemon Skin

Basecoat: Deneb Stone Wash: Agrax Earthshade First highlight: Kislev Flesh Second highlight: 2 parts Kislev Flesh/ 1 part Palid Wych Flesh (it pays not to do this highlight too evenly - the overall effect is improved by having some areas relatively ruddy looking before the washes) Wash; Agrax Earthshade Glazes: yellow, red and purple, with a smattering of green in different areas. purple to red to yellow across different areas of the model (so belly purple, upper torso red, other areas yellow/as desired).     Proximity's Emperor's Children Purple Receipe

The purple is 2 coats of Lich Purple over a black undercoat, from there - there are 3 stages between lich purple and warlock purple before a layer of warlock on its own, then there are 2 highlights onto of that mixing bleached bone into warlock.

After that, 2-3 washes are done of a 50/50 mix of black and lich purple.

The robes are just scorched brown mixed up to graveyard earth, and then mixing from graveyard earth through to bleached bone before mixing some white in .probably only about 8 or 9 steps between scorched brown and white too.

scorched brown->graveyard earth->desert yellow->kommando khaki->bleached bone->bleached bone+some white->bleached bone + even more white

Proximity's NMM Gold Receipe

Dark Flesh -> 50/50 Dark Flesh + Vermin Brown -> Vermin Brown -> 50/50 Vermin Brown + Vomit Brown -> Vomit Brown -> 50/50 Vomit Brown + Sunburst Yellow -> 75/25 The previous mix (I like to call it Vomitburst Bellow ;
> + Bleached Bone -> 50/50 Vomitburst Bellow + Bleached Bone -> 33/33/33 Vomitburst Bellow + Bleached Bone + Skull White.

1. Dark Flesh

2. Dark Flesh + Vermin Brown (about half and half)

3. Vermin Brown

4. Vermin Brown + Vomit Brown (about half and half)

5. Vomit Brown

6. Vomit Brown + Sunburst Yellow (about half and half)

7. Step 6 + Bleached Bone

8. Step 7 + some more bleached bone

9. Step 8 + some skull white

Accent colours – Green

Looks like Dark Angels green highlighted with increasing amounts of goblin green. Layered transition with some stippling over the top. Probable use of a green gaze to tie it all together. 


Beatsy’s Death Guard Painting Guide:

Power Armour

1.Undercoated Black.
2. Airburshed a 50:50 mix of Catachan Green and Rotting flesh onto the entire army.
3. Heavy wash of Thrakka Green and Sepia.
4. Made a watery 60:40 mix of of Rotting Flesh and Catachan Green and started streaking the armour. Also speckled this on the armour in spots
5. Second Highlight was watery Rotting Flesh again steaked on. Again speckled this on too
6. Third highlight was Rotting Flesh and White (I used a Model Colour White as the GW Skull white was too watery), and this was carefully streaked onto the raised areas and on the rivets and crack edges.
7. Ogryn Flesh Wash was then applied onto all the gaps, cracks and around all armour trim to deepen the shading. Can be quite liberal about it and I also streaked this in places to make it 'run' down the armour.
8. Devlan Mud was then painted on the deep cracks and around the armour edges to add more shade to the areas, ie behind the knees, elbow pads and other dark places.
I found any overspill of the last two washes added to the overall look.

Rust effect: Watered down mix of fiery orange and bestial brown.


Old1Eye’s Genestealer Painting Guides


1) Midnight blue base, or regal blue if you don't have midnight blue knocking around
2) first layer: hormagaunt purple
3) second layer: 50/50 mix of hormie purple and rotting flesh
4) 25/75 mix of hormie purple and rotting flesh, in that order
5) 10/90 mix of hormie purple and rotting flesh, in that order
6) leviathan purple wash
7) very light highlight of pure rotting flesh


1) black base
2) 1/1 mix of enchanted blue and goblin green highlight on the edges
3) the same mix, with some skull white mixed in, highlighting the bits already blueish
4) the same mix, with even more skull white


1) red gore base
2) red gore with a small amount of skull white highlight
3) red gore with a slightly larger amount of skull white highlight
4) baal red wash


1) tausept ochre base
2) golden yellow highlight


1) scorched brown base
2) bleached bone highlight
3) skull white highlight

Carapace Base

1) regal blue/chaos black 1:1 basecoat over entire carapace
2) regal blue highlight over this basecoat
3) hawk turquoise/chaos black in a ratio so the HT is slightly brighter than the regal blue applied before.
4) hawk turquoise highlight
5) asurmen blue wash
6) hawk turquoise/skull white 75:25 final highlight

Carapace Edging

1) 1:1 hawk turquoise/chaos black base
2) hawk turquoise highlight
3) hawk turquoise/skull white 1:1 highlight
4) very light pure skull white highlight.


Binky’s Titan Recipes

Gold Trim: Tin Bitz, Brazen Brass, Shining Gold, brown ink wash (50\50 old Citadel ink and water), shining gold and finally 50\50 shining gold and mithril silver for the very edges.

Binky’s Silver: First coat is a mix of Boltgun metal, Tin bitz and chaos black, then over that a heavy drybrush of boltgun metal, next a wash of the new Badab Black wash, then another drybrushed coat of boltgun metal, deliberately avoiding any recessed areas and concentrating on the more exposed areas. Next was some hand detailing, basically a mix of chainmail and boltgun metal painted along sharp edges and as scratches, where I thought it was appropriate (most obvious place in the pictures being the bottom of the "jaw"), finally, if these scratches looked too obvious anywhere I'd do a further light brushing over with Boltgun metal.

Red armour plates: The red is done using Vallejo Air colours and an airbrush. I undercoat black, then a first coat all over of Mahogany (similar to scorched brown, maybe slightly darker and redder), then a second coat of 50\50 mahogany and Fire Red (a quite orangey browny red) all over, I then gradually increase the amount of Fire Red and also start adding Italian Red (slightly lighter again but still quite an orangey red, also called Ferrari Red on the bottle, so that should give you an idea), and build up a few layers, leaving the darker colours around the edges of the panels and areas that will be shadowed and concentrating the lighter colours on the curves and raised areas. Fairly simple to airbrush (has to be really, as I'm no expert at it!).